![]() ![]() The under-exposed, muddy-toned, noisy foregrounds which I see in so many landscape photographs is the direct result of using Matrix metering coupled with Minus EV. ![]() Matrix metering is unreliable because it uses AI and averages the entire scene - which is usually detrimental to the main subject. Night shots, Concert and Theatrical photography would be among the few occasions for using Minus EV. The only time when you should be using Negative EV is when you are shooting a bright object against a BLACK background and wish that background to render as Black and not as 12% Grey! And most of the stressing about "Noise" could be ameliorated if camera users stopped being concerned with how the shot appears on the back of the camera, in the Histogram or paying attention to those useless Blinkies! I don't want to be unkind, but none of those renderings of the statue in the shade are doing justice to what the camera could capture in those circumstances. Set Sample Points when editing pay attention to the numbers (NOT to how it looks to your eye on your monitor!) and you won't go wrong. What "looks the best to me" when using 3rd party Profiles (or, even worse, some canned "Preset") has very little to do with actually getting the best possible exposure to start with and from that point forward, using the software to its fullest capabillity so that your HLs read in the 244 range and your deep shadows read at about 008- with the extremest Black pixels just nudged to zero and a specular HL nudged to 255. It is actually far more accurate if Spot-metering to use a pure WHITE object and about +3 EV - even +3.03 EV with some cameras. Grey-card Spot Metering under exposes too!Īnd how many people are spot-meter reading from the same grey-card in every situation anyway? Practically, the actual bit value of a photograph of a middle gray test chart in sRGB Color Space should be 117,117,117. *Technically, this is the “middle” of the bit depth (from 0,0,0 to 255,255,255). If so, this is the function to use to fix that. The ISO standard for meter calibration allows up to about a half stop of error, so it is entirely possible that your camera is calibrated incorrectly. If you don’t use a gray card to meter but find that you’re consistently dialing in a specific exposure compensation in all situations, consider using this custom setting to adjust the camera. This is one way to compensate for such differences.ģ. Gray cards can vary as much as a half stop from what would be middle gray (128,128,128*), and if you spot meter with multiple cameras, they can easily be different by as much as a half stop due to manufacturing tolerances. Note I said “always.” This Custom Setting would always override the metering null value, so you have to meter consistently for this to be of exceptional use. If the matrix metering system is inaccurate for you in some situations, use one of the other metering systems instead.Ģ.If you always spot meter off of a gray card, consider dialing in the appropriate compensation for the spot metering system to compensate for the slight difference in the way camera meters are calibrated. So if you dial in a half stop compensation, case one is now off by a half stop and case two is “fixed.” Did you gain anything? I think not. I’ve seen situations where the matrix meter gets the exposure dead on and others where it misses by a half stop or so. Because the matrix metering system already dials in secret compensations based upon the pattern of lighting and the colors of the subjects it sees plus the scene it thinks it recognizes, you really would be adding meter compensation on top of an unknown. To steal a bit more from Thom Hogan's Guide:ġ.Personally, I’d stay away from altering the matrix meter system. ![]()
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